Thursday, August 16, 2007

Cape Breton Island









Cape Breton Island lies off the northeastern cost of Nova Scotia. It’s separated from the mainland of Nova Scotia by the Straight of Canso. The causeway connecting the two was built in 1955. Prior to that a ferry was used. There are three distinct cultures on the Island. The Mikmaq “Indians” or First Nations as they are referred to in Canada, the Gaelic/Scottish and the Acadians/French. Music & dance are the mainstay entertainment on Cape Breton.
On Monday the 13th, we drove from Halifax and spent the night at the Whycocomagh Provincial Park near Baddeck. A nice, well kept park in the middle of a pine forest. It rained most of the day. The next morning we drove to Baddeck and parked by the fishing dock. Walked around town for a while treating ourselves to a wonderful flax & carrot muffin. We ran into some friends we had made at a campground earlier in this trip. They too were touring Cape Breton.
We continued on to Louisbourg staying at the Village owner campground right downtown. Lucked out by getting the last campsite available. Louisbourg is a beautiful little town. Reminds us of the small coastal towns in Maine.
In the evening we went to a performance at the Louisbourg Playhouse. We say Lyrics & Laughter 2007. “A spirited performance of Cape Breton music and comedy in the historic atmosphere of the Playhouse”. We don’t recall ever attending a more entertaining event. The cast was composed of six of the most talented young singers & dancers. They are all local college students home for the summer. There was this one young women who played five different instruments, the fiddle, piano, guitar, bodhran (a type of drum), djembe (another drum), had a wonderful singing voice plus was the lead step dancer. Amazing. The weather today wasn’t much. Cool & misty. Rained hard most of the night.
On Wednesday we went to the Fortress of Louisbourg. The fort was founded by the French in 1713, captured by the British in 1745, returned to the French in 1748 by a treaty, captured again by the British in 1758 then abandoned by the British in 1768. When the local coal mines began shutting down in the 1960’s, Canada helped offset the very high unemployment rate by rebuilding the Fortress to appear as it did in 1744. “Each summer the Fortress springs to life as dozens of costumed animators become the town’s residents of the summer of 1744. Period homes and exhibits line the central streets of Rue Toulouse and Rue Royale, as well as along the busy waterfront”. A very enjoyable day. Bright & sunny.


Today, Thursday, was a down day. Cleaned the camper, caught up on some maintenance items, took short walks & went to dinner.


Louisbourg was a very enjoyable place to visit.
We left Louisbourg about 10am heading for the St. Ann’s Bay Campground near St. Ann’s. Stopped in Sydney at an Atlantic Superstore and Wal-Mart to resupply for the next leg of our trip. The weather was dreary; cool with a misty rain all day long. Never did clear up. We got a nice spot at the campground. An unobstructed view of the bay. If it wasn’t for the fog, we would be able to see the islands across St. Ann’s Bay.
Saturday morning. Still a cool, misty rain. It rained on & off all day with a two hour break in the afternoon. Today was supposed to have been an active day. Blueberry Festival in the morning, Bluegrass singers in the afternoon and a dance in the evening. We passed on the Blueberry Festival because of the rain, only one musician showed for the Bluegrass singing and the dance got rained out by a major storm. Thunder & lightning, pouring rain, the whole thing. Oh well, we read books, cleaned up things, talked to our neighbors sitting under awnings. It was nice talking to the “locals”. Heard a lot of interesting stories.

On Sunday morning we awoke to another grey day. Had breakfast and set out for Prince Edward’s Island and in search of nicer weather. Arrived in PEI about 3pm. Stopped at the Visitors Center, bought a $4.50, single scoop ice cream cone at a Cows store next door. Don’t think I’ve ever eaten a $4.50 cone before. Another first for both of us. Headed on to the Southport Motel & Trailer Park in Stratford. It’s just across the harbor from Charlottetown; our destination for the day. The rain mostly followed us. Right now, 9:30pm, it’s 54* and drizzling. The weather forecast calls for clear skies by tomorrow afternoon.